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From now on I will make a
list of the parts I send to Texas Precision Plating because come time to
put the rear sprocket on it's not here and neither is the sprocket for my
next '72 restoration. That's $70.00 worth of sprockets and if you call
them they say "we'll look for them and call you back." Good
luck, they never called back! This new sprocket is a Sunstar aftermarket
with 44 teeth instead of the 45 tooth Honda put on. It came from Jack at www.dratv.com
along with the chain and front sprocket. I like his package because it was
complete and the chain came the correct length without having to be cut
down. ![]() |
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I checked out the brake position on my 411 mile 1970 CT70 and found that the brake adjustment from the factory was at the end of the brake rod. So you may want to re-adjust the brake lever on the aluminum hub to compensate. You can see here the nut at the end of the rod is at the end like it should be from the factory. |
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Thanks Dave,
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I do not send my left side cover when sending a motor to get rebuilt for fear of getting broken during shipping. I just found out the engine left side cover is available as a reproduction now. Here is the removable points cover that goes on the left side cover. This points cover is correct for 1969-72 CT70's and is not available as a reproduction. So get out your muslin buff and tripoli to bring it back to an original shine. After hand polishing we again used the Busch aluminum cleaner on it. On Frankenbike we painted the MADE IN JAPAN black and found out on our 403 mile candy gold CT70 that only the Honda gets black paint. We used a hobby Testors brand in glossy black with a dentist tool to carefully fill the recessed Honda area. You can also use small wire to get the same results. Once the paint dries take a cloth or Q-Tip with a little lacquer thinner and gently rub off any spot that might have gotten too much. |
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This bike had black electrical tape over the stator wires coming from the engine. We wanted the "correct" look for this bike since we are spending so much time and money on it. The Home Depot heat tubing is not as shiny as the original, but it is black and looks better than tape. We took off all the tape and rubber engine grommet so we could put the right heat shrink tubing on. |
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I can't remember what it cost, but it wasn't much. This is the heat shrink tubing available at your local Home Depot in the electrical hardware section. The correct size to get is 3/8" X 4" and comes four to a pack. |
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Next we took a wire wheel to the brass ends to make sure they are clean and corrosion free. Once assembled the last thing we want is a wiring problem. Now slip the heat shrink tubing over the wires one by one. With a simple lighter heat the tubing up on all sides and get it to shrink down around the wires. If you have a real good hair drier that gets super hot this will also work. |
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Clean the rubber grommet with lacquer thinner or get a new one from Honda and slide it back down over the tubing. |
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Very nice web site. I'm glad to see someone finally helping us restorers without wanting us to buy something first. These parts guys selling parts can't even answer any of my questions and you do it all for free. I don't have any of that fancy equipment you have for making a carburetor look new like you do but I do have some hot sauce. I let my carb soak in hot sauce overnight and the next day the acid had eaten away the gunk and it looks brand new. Enclosed are pic's of my recent restoration. Thank you again, Thank you Steve. What a beautiful bike and a wonderful tech tip. Because of you I don't eat hot sauce anymore.
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Here the heat tubing is done
and completely original looking again. We use an aluminum polish with a tooth brush made by Busch to give the engine center cases one last clean up. I'm not sure the original freshly cast aluminum surface can ever be duplicated exactly, so we get it as clean as possible without putting too much of a shine on it. I think too much of a polish would be "over-restoring" it. |
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The three wires coming out of the stator/engine case will never be seen. I did want to take the brass ends that clip into the wiring harness and clean them before finishing this area. I decided to put a new white plastic end on since we had one left over for a Mini Trail 50 restoration. |
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With the motor now on the bike I next install the muffler and all mounting brackets. If you don't have a CT70 Assembly Parts Manual, now would be the time to get one. This book will show you how the bike goes back together and also most important of all gives you the Honda part numbers so you can go down to your local Honda dealer and order new parts. I hope someone out there is listening because it really cracks me up when I see people bidding on parts on eBay and paying more than what the dealer charges. Plus they're paying shipping on top of that. Go figure! Listen to me now believe me later, your local Honda dealer has these parts!!!!! |
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I know a lot of you are into
powder coating and my feelings are if you want to powder coat that's fine
with me. I don't want to send something to get powder coated, take two
weeks and pay more than the cost of the black glossy paint I could get
down at the local paint store. I will pay less, get just as good results
and get mine done long before you get your parts back from the powder
coater. As I'm putting each bike back together I like to squirt a little lubricant on each nut and bolt before I screw them back in. It makes it so much easier and helps prevent rust. Cotter pins, washers and round headed screws for the front muffler shield are all available in metric sizes right down at your local Home Depot. So don't let the internet pirates get you. Get them yourself and save. |
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Trail 70 Carb Restoration |
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NEW |
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New! The Wheelie-ing Elvi |
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New |
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Mini Trail 50 Restoration
Click
Here
CT70 Frankenbike Restoration
Click
Here
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