Z50 KO Restoration
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| Questions about this resoration? Please email starfish@olypen.com | |
 The picture I sent of the k0 and k1 fork is to show that the k0 fork only has one large hole by the fender mount, and the k1 has two. There are a few fake K0 forks with two holes. |
I haven't seen a restoration in a while anywhere, so lets assemble a 1968 slant guard. Let's start with the frame and tank. I got them from Reese out near seattle. They were restored and painted by Steve at the EMF (Emumclaw mini-bike factory.) You were right, I had to remove the paint on the steering stem to get the race to slide on. I've cleaned up the bearings. The first thing we will do is mount the forks to the frame. |
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One thing about a k0 is you have to find nos parts. There are very few reproduction parts. I found shopping on ebay works, but you have to look at all angles and ask questions. If the the pictures aren't good and the shippings not posted, stay away. I bought a motor once where the side pictured looked mint. When I got it the other side ( not pictured) was smashed. |
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Questions about this
resoration? Please email
starfish@olypen.com |
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Here are some pictures of
the ko seat and a new replacment seat. The pan is the same, but the foam
and cover are different. I have a nos, pan and a k0 foam and what is
supposed to be a k0 cover I'll try that, but if it doesn't work out, I
will use a new seat. I once sold a nice k0 seat for $500. Nice ones are
as hard to find as the mufflers. Have you ever seen one?
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Most people think the only
difference is the script. On the early k0s, the lower mount is two pieces
of flat metal not a molded piece like on all the other mufflers.
Here are some pictures of
the ko seat and a new replacment seat. The pan is the same, but the foam
and cover are defferent. I have a nos, pan and a k0 foam and what is
supposed to be a k0 cover I'll try that, but if it doesn't work out, I
will use a new seat. I once sold a nice k0 seat for $500.
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Questions about this resoration? Please email
starfish@olypen.com |
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Nice ones are as hard to find as the mufflers. Have you ever seen one? Most people think the only difference is the script. On the early k0s, the lower mount is two pieces of flat metal not a molded piece like on all the other mufflers. |
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Heres the
muffler we will be using notice the mounts. Found my new toggle switch
today. |
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Well! I now have
the front forks all together. It took me an hour to find my new chrome
cap nut. Was in the last box i looked in. Finding all the parts I have
been collecting. It is fun kind, of like a treasure hunt. I have the
front tire mounted with nice polished hub and brake plate. Next step is
to mount the motor. Then the back tire, because I dont have a stand.
This will be happening tomorrow, then I'll take some more pictures. I
lucked out last year and got two nos. left bars. You don't see these for
sale hardly ever.
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The few bolts that this bike takes won't be replated at this time. I will work on getting some done to replace these some time. I need to polish my back fender as it has some scuffs from 30 years of setting on the shelf - more pictures soon . |
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Questions about this resoration? Please email
starfish@olypen.com
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Wow! I used to see restored
k0s and thought their back fender was bent up away from the tire. now I
see that's the way they are. As you can see I've almost got this pony
together. The front brake cable i used seemed a bit long, so i put on a
nice original. It fit better.
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Just because a part is new doesn't make it better. there is two things on these bikes I've learned to make better. when I mount the back sprocket I use bolts with out the keeper and coat them with locktite stud and bearing mount. they won't work loose and ruin your frame. |
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then on the rubber boots they tend to get dirty and fall down the forks. my fix is on the qa fork, the boot is held to the fork with a small metal band like a fuel line clamp. if you can get a set and put them on your k0 k1 boot they will never slide down. one thing I like about assembling a bike like this is as I find the parts I remember a minibike friend i got it from. like on this bike the cables were from Jeremy from Deluth the spotless new carb came from the ctkidd. I got some parts on there from Bervil from Yakima. some from emf. the list goes on its like coin colecting only you get to build something when your done. |
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Tomorrow its grips, levers, seat and tank. I came up with 415 sprockets and just got a roll of chain on ebay to finish it up. so tomorrow we will see pictures of the finished bike minus the chain till it gets here. this was a fun project I'd also like to thank kenny for his help and his part manual and shop manuals are the best. they have all the information in them to do everthing to these bikes to keep them running. |
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Questions about this resoration? Please email
starfish@olypen.com |
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Questions about this resoration? Please email
starfish@olypen.com |
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Here's
a tip for paint on a k1 z50 thats easy as123 and low buck to boot. Sand
surface, then spray with Dupli-color primer and let dry. For the red k1
color use testers enamel 1629 ruby red metal flake.it's a dead on match
for the darker red original finish. Let it tack up then spray a coat of
Dupli-color enamel paint clear da1692 it looks just like the factory
finish. For the yellow color use dupli -color enamel school bus yellow. I
painted a muffler guard with this and put it on an original paint frame.
you could not tell it was different paint. If anyone has a match for the
k1 blue i'd love to here about it. Dave
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